Merch Education · 26 terms

The A–Z of
Merchandising

A cheeky, insider glossary from the planning side. Every term has a definition, a POV, and a real reason it matters. Save it. Send it to the new hire. Argue with it.

26 terms. 26 opinions. This isn't a Wikipedia article. It's what Two and Six actually think about the words the industry throws around.

A

Allocation

The thing your buyer rounds up "to be safe." Then can't markdown out of fast enough.

Distributing inventory across stores, regions, or channels based on demand. Over-allocation creates stuck stock at the slow doors. Under-allocation creates lost sales at the hot ones. The math should drive allocation, not the gut feel of the buyer who flew to one market last quarter.

B

Buy Plan

The number every team disagrees on by July.

The pre-season forecast that says how much to buy, by category, by month. It's a hypothesis with a budget attached. The good buy plans build in their own failure modes - assuming you'll be wrong by 10–15% and leaving OTB headroom to react.

C

Carryover

What most brands do by accident and call strategy.

Holding seasonless or evergreen product into the next season instead of marking it down. Works beautifully for basics and core (white tee, classic denim). A disaster for trend-driven novelty. The math is simple: storage cost + cost-of-capital vs the margin you'd recover next season.

D

Drop

Once meant cool. Now means "we needed a press hook."

A timed product release outside the regular seasonal calendar. Used right, drops build urgency and feed the loyalty loop. Used wrong, they fragment the buy plan, starve the core assortment, and train your customer to wait for the next one.

E

EOM

The inventory number that decides whether you sleep tonight.

End-of-month inventory snapshot. Used for cover calculations, OTB resets, and figuring out what next month inherits. A clean EOM is its own KPI. A messy one is next month's problem with last month's price tag.

F

Forecast

An educated guess with a confidence interval.

The volume and timing prediction underneath every buy decision. The best forecasters aren't trying to be exactly right - they're trying to be consistently wrong by less than 10%. Forecasting is the most underrated skill in merch.

G

Gross Margin

The number leadership wants up. The number markdowns push down. The middle is where you live.

(Sales − Cost of Goods Sold) ÷ Sales. The headline profitability metric. Watch the trend, not the snapshot. A 52% GM month means nothing without context - whether last year's was 56% or 48% is what matters.

H

Hero

The one SKU that funds the rest of the assortment.

The top-selling style that pulls disproportionate revenue. Every brand has one. The best brands know which one - and protect it with replenishment, marketing, and never letting it go out of stock. The rest find out at year-end when the report tells them.

I

IMU (Initial Markup)

How much room you bought yourself before the markdowns.

The cost-to-retail spread at launch. Higher IMU = more cushion for markdowns later. Most apparel brands need a 60–70% IMU to survive a normal markdown cycle. Below that, you're already behind on day one.

J

Just-in-Time

The supply chain dream. The supply chain headache.

Receiving inventory exactly when demand needs it, minimising holding costs. Works beautifully when forecasting is sharp and partners are reliable. Breaks the moment anything goes wrong upstream. The trade-off is risk vs cash efficiency.

K

KPI

The five numbers your boss actually reads.

Key Performance Indicator. The metrics that matter most for your category. Pick five - usually some combination of sell-through, AUR, WOS, gross margin, and full-price rate. Watch them weekly. Ignore everything else until end-of-quarter.

L

Landed Cost

The true cost. Not the one on the PO.

Cost of goods + freight + duties + handling fees + first-mile logistics. The number that actually goes into margin math. If your IMU is built on PO cost only, your margin is fiction. Build everything off the landed cost or pay for it later.

M

Markdown

The most expensive word in apparel.

A planned reduction in retail price to move slow-moving inventory. Used right, it's a tool. Used wrong, it's a confession that the buy plan was off. The data tells you which.

N

Net Sales

What's left after returns laugh at your top line.

Gross sales minus returns, exchanges, and discounts. The real revenue number. Brands with high return rates have a wildly different gross and net - and the gap is where the truth lives. Always report on net, never gross.

O

OTB (Open-to-Buy)

The money for the buys you haven't messed up yet.

The dollars or units remaining in your buy budget for a season or month. Manage it like a runway, not a piggy bank. Tight OTB = limited reactivity. Bloated OTB = uncommitted spend that someone will pressure you to use.

P

Plan

The fiction everyone signs off on in February.

The pre-season forecast that says what to buy, when, and how much. The plan vs actuals gap is where merchandisers spend their entire careers. Adjust early > defend late. The plan is a starting line, not a finish line.

Q

Quantity

The number your vendor said. The number you wish you'd said back.

How many units to order, constrained by MOQs, capital, storage, and forecast confidence. The art is buying enough to win without enough to lose. Most brands over-buy on novelty and under-buy on core. Should be the opposite.

R

Replenishment

The thing brands that always have your size do behind the scenes.

Automated reorder triggers that refill core stock when weeks-of-supply drops below threshold. The opposite of one-and-done. The math behind "they always have it in stock" is a replenishment trigger doing its job on Mondays.

S

Sell-Through

The truest sentence about your buy plan.

ST% = Units Sold ÷ Units Received. The cleanest signal of whether you bought right. Under 50% in week 4 = you bought too deep. 60–70% = the sweet spot. 80%+ = you could have bought deeper. (You probably know which one you're in right now.)

T

Turn

How many times your cash dressed up as cotton this year.

Inventory Turn. COGS ÷ Average Inventory. The speed your inventory cycles through the business. Higher turn = better cash efficiency. Most apparel sits between 3x and 6x annually. The big winners are pushing 8–12x.

U

UPT (Units Per Transaction)

When she came for one and left with three. The basket told on her.

Average units per purchase, online or in-store. A signal of cross-merchandising effectiveness, styling cohesion, and how good your assortment is at suggesting "and this too." Rising UPT = your story is connecting.

V

Vendor

Your best partner or your most expensive lesson.

The factory, mill, or supplier behind your goods. Vendor relationships are a leverage point most brands undervalue. The good ones feel like a marriage - flexible, honest, mutually invested. The bad ones feel like emergency rooms. Choose carefully.

W

WOS (Weeks of Supply)

How long this inventory will last at current pace. Listen to it.

OH ÷ Average Weekly Units Sold. Tells you when to reorder, when to slow down, and when to start the markdown countdown. If your WOS doubles in 30 days and nothing else changed, the price is wrong.

X

Excess Inventory

X marks the spot where margin used to be.

The silent killer of cash flow - stock sitting beyond planned coverage with no clear exit. Letter X is the hardest in merch. Excess inventory is the most honest term for what brands carry on their balance sheets and refuse to talk about at board meetings.

Y

YTD (Year-to-Date)

The number you brag about in October. Apologise for in November.

Running totals from January 1 to today. Used in every executive report. Watch the trend curve, not just the single number. YTD up doesn't mean Q4 will be - and YTD down can mask a strong recovery quarter.

Z

Zero Stock

The most expensive "no" in retail.

Out-of-stock. When a customer wants to buy and you have nothing to sell them. Every zero-stock event is a lost sale plus a lost trust point. Most of them are fixable with a replenishment rule and a WOS threshold. See: R is for Replenishment.

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